I’ve been slowly putting together an AFV Club model, that of an M1128 MGS Stryker, in 1/35 scale. This model is a first for me, on a few different levels: first model which I am using liquid plastic glue, first model with photo-etched metal, first model with fingernail thin pieces. There is a lot of room for customization, where you can assemble with hatches open or closed, different side armor plating, extended towing assembly or not. Oh, I should also mention that the tires turn and the main cannon rotates and elevates.
Although I probably should have done a photographic step-by step, I never really wanted to or planned to. There are times where it is too damned hard holding a piece, usually hatch handles, with the tweezers while applying glue to also snap a picture. Suffice to say I will post a pic or two when everything is all done, as I want to show off what I hope to be a nice winter camouflage pattern complete with mud on the tires.
Well, I take that back; there will be a point where I will present a step-by-step: when I put in working lights. I enjoy modifying models to where they have electronic components. The last model I modified in this manner, a Games Workshop Tau Hammerhead, has cabin lights, intake glow, light-up targeting array, and sound effects (the main cannon makes shooting noises). I probably spent more on electronics than on the model itself, but hey, when it comes to something you like, it’s worth it… so is the look on people’s faces when they see it all lit up! Maybe I should post those pics on the Warhammer mini thread…
Anyway, in addition to this model, I also bought an IDF Tank Crew Set (1/35 scale), produced by Academy Hobby Model kits. I know, and IDF tank crew isn’t the same as a Stryker crew, but that isn’t the point. The point is that I wanted the Stryker model to have a crew, and I feel that, with a winter camouflage pattern, an IDF team fits. Most winter patterns I’ve seen are for the European theater, and as such, would be manned by IDF forces.
Now, here’s my review…
The Stryker model is great. Amazing, even. For $50, you get a ton of pieces, of all sizes from side armor panels to itty bitty hand / foot rails and hatch handles. Mold lines are nonexistent. Let me say that again… there are no mold lines! And, out of habit, I always dry fit the pieces to make sure they’ll fit properly: there is no need, as I haven’t come across any gaps and the pieces are always a perfect fit. This model is a dream to put together! My only complaint is in the removal of some of the thinner pieces from the sprue: I have snapped a couple rails already, and that was just by using my X-Acto knife or a crafting clippers. If anyone has any idea how to safely remove pieces like that, let me know!
As far as the IDf figures go *shakes head*… Severe mold lines, even within the “folded” or “wrinkled” areas of team member’s clothing. In assembly, the pieces don’t match up properly: when you put the boots on, it looks like they are wearing bell bottoms, when you put the torso on the waist, it looks as if they are wearing a poofy winter coat and tight jeans. The pieces themselves are stuck to the sprue by thick connections: there’s a lot of trimming and filing and cutting trying to smooth everything out, to the point where you might ruin some of the detail with a minor slip. It also seems that the plastic used in this kit is a bit thicker… well, not thinker, but harder
I’m used to assembling stuff made by Revel or by Games Workshop, where I’d have to do a lot of touch-ups just to get something to fit correctly. To work on something of the high quality that is AFV, I’m taken back, while on the flip side, the IDF kit seems to be worse than anything else I’ve worked on. If it wasn’t for the fact that I am going for a more complete look, I’d scrap those little guys all together. A couple things I am planning to do to the model (other than the lighting) is to create antennas and to use braded wire instead of a tow cable (if I even use that option).
